--===============35577389106157353== Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-139536727-1149027107=:66395" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit --0-139536727-1149027107=:66395 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Aaron, et. al., Seeing your post reminded me of a recent 'experiment'. My bro., frail from recent hip replacement, is having trouble with fly rods, so I wanted to make him a spinner he could plink with. I wanted it hassle free (no ferrule) and very sturdy should he stumble or get caught in willows and have to horse it some. I had an extra #6 spinning tip top on hand (and thought, hmm, .090 at the tip is stout) and some stuff for the seat and grips @ ~ .300. I got to looking over tapers and thought, "Well, shoot. It's a spinning rod why get esoteric about it? Wonder what a completely straight line taper would do?" I made a simple graph and put dimensions from .310 to .090 on one axis, and stations from 0 to 50" on the other axis, assigning .310 to sta. 0 and .090 to sta. 50" (the strips were 50 in. and I put a sawed off piece of graphite rod under the seat and grips to make it a 5' rod. It was alot of fun sawing up a graphite rod;^) I drew a sloped line from the 0/.310 mark to the 50/.090 mark and then plotted what the resulting dimensions would be at the other stations. ( The results were, roughly, 310, 277, 257, 235, 215, 195, 174, 152, 132, 111 and 90 respectively.) You may note that if it had a ferrule it would be a #13. The resulting rod is very stout (Common Cents rated it at over a 9 wt. were it a fly rod) yet very supple and sensitve. With Cholla grips, wrapped in U. of Wyo. colors, and dubbed Dakota Sand it was a real hit - he called he 3 times the day he got it. The straightline method, given what components are at hand seems to work well. I hope this is informative. Best 'O Sport... Darrol Groth, Vernon, Tx. --0-139536727-1149027107=:66395 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Hi Aaron, et. al.,

Seeing your post reminded me of a recent 'experiment'. My bro., frail from recent hip replacement, is having trouble with fly rods, so I wanted to make him a spinner he could plink with. I wanted it hassle free (no ferrule) and very sturdy should he stumble or get caught in willows and have to horse it some. I had an extra #6 spinning tip top on hand (and thought, hmm, .090 at the tip is stout) and some stuff for the seat and grips @ ~ .300. I got to looking over tapers and thought, "Well, shoot. It's a spinning rod why get esoteric about it? Wonder what a completely straight line taper would do?"

I made a simple graph and put dimensions from .310 to .090 on one axis, and stations from 0 to 50" on the other axis, assigning .310 to sta. 0 and .090 to sta. 50" (the strips were 50 in. and I put a sawed off piece of graphite rod under the seat and grips to make it a 5' rod. It was alot of fun sawing up a graphite rod;^) I drew a sloped line from the 0/.310 mark to the 50/.090 mark and then plotted what the resulting dimensions would be at the other stations. ( The results were, roughly, 310, 277, 257, 235, 215, 195, 174, 152, 132, 111 and 90 respectively.) You may note that if it had a ferrule it would be a #13.

The resulting rod is very stout (Common Cents rated it at over a 9 wt. were it a fly rod) yet very supple and sensitve. With Cholla grips, wrapped in U. of Wyo. colors, and dubbed Dakota Sand it was a real hit - he called he 3 times the day he got it. The straightline method, given what components are at hand seems to work well. I hope this is informative. Best 'O Sport...

Darrol Groth,

Vernon, Tx.

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A no brain spinning rod - Darrol and Mary Groth